Rwandan Trip Blog – Desma Reid Coleman
May 12th, 2009 Posted by Catherine Neill
Desma Reid Coleman
Notes from the Road to Rwanda
May 2, 2009
After much challenge with getting out of JFK to board for Brussels to meet up with Lin, Martha, Mary and Darcie, I had an incredible agent who went to bat to get me to London, and assist me in purchasing a ticket on Ethiopian Airlines that would actually get me into Kigali by mid afternoon; it was a long and arduous journey to date, but I am inspired to get through the delayed nine hour wait at Heathrow and move forward – the trip is through Addis Ababa, then to Kigali………..we board at 11:30p.m. so I will make my way to the boarding area early and go from there…………
May 3, 2009
We left on time from Ethiopia, and for the first time in many years, I am in a window seat; I think this is most appropriate to head into the land of 1,000 hills with a real view.
I arrived in Kigali on time and both my bags were there – a good sign, given their move all over the universe since I left Detroit on Friday before day. I decided to walk out the short thruway to see if anyone was waiting for me since I could not call anyone, and no signal to email, and there was someone standing there with a sign with my name on it. I knew instinctively that it was my hostess Bertha. She knew me, without ever seeing a photo of me, and we were old friends quite quickly.
It was a hurry to get to Holly Hixon’s home, meet Mary and Darcie, and Holly and her husband Brian, and hug old friends Lin and Martha. We spoke on my harrowing travel and the role of the Hixon’s as missionaries of sorts in Rwanda. I ate a bit, then we met briefly to simply discuss things; I connected with Eron, who with Holly, led the instruction for the In Country training for IEEW; Eron is Rwandese, and was a member of last year’s class.
There was only a little time to get ready and I wanted a bath, as I had not really been near water since leaving the states. Holly informed me that she had to ‘heat the tank up’, and it would take ½ hour, but alas, I was able to bathe and dress for the graduation/reception that was held at Christ Church hosted by Pastor Dave and his wife, Jana.
We arrived in good time, met some of the class participants from both this year and last, and we spoke a bit with U.S. Ambassador, Stuart Symington. We also met the director of U.S. Aid – Dennis Weller, and Eron’s husband, a former Ambassador from Rwanda to the U.S.; I understand that he is also a medical doctor.
The program started with the dance troupe formed in Christ Church of local Rwandese. It was as if I was still in the U.S., and in attendance at a local church with a group of praise dancers……….
I felt very relaxed (although exhausted) at the mike after such serious exhaustion and travel, and felt my words were well received per the expressions of the audience; I am pleased. It was a compliment to be referenced a few times by Ambassador
Symington, even being referred to as ‘Delma’; he had no idea that this was my “official” family name. Later in conversation, he mentioned that a real need in Rwanda was for available and reliable shipping, along with improved relations with the airlines personnel.
Monday – May 4, 2009
We started off visiting several of the selected crop of students’ businesses. It was enlightening and informative and good walking shoes came in handy as we moved about;
We had lunch at Eron’s beautiful home and visited the Fit and Slender ‘woman only’ fitness business, developed by student Annette and right next door to Eron. Annette’s plan is to move into town per a spot identified by her real estate agent and will expand to a B & B, as well as a spa.
Bertha’s SUV is a stick shift on it’s last leg, but it got us through the rather rocky road to Eron’s home (they are paying $250 U.S. per family to have it paved independently) and back, and it is a real trooper.
The presentations by Darcie, Mary, and Martha, again at Christ Church, were well prepared and well received, especially by the students, who had many questions and were engaged; Lin promised to send them copies of the power point presentations and had everyone to sign in separately with their email addresses and they would receive contact.
When we returned to Bertha’s, she had a dinner prepared by her maid (this seems to be the custom, that even individuals and families who earn modest incomes, will spring for assistance with their homes, inside and out) and her daughter Alva, cousin Jane and nephew all partook; there was much lively discussion, and good Rwandese food, as it was at Eron’s. I still had to crash – partially hung up in an altered time zone……….it will be better tomorrow…………
Tuesday, May 5, 2009
It is beginning to feel like something of a whirlwind; Bertha got me up early, and had to heat the water, but has drawn my bath two days in a row and it is comforting.
We move quickly. I like the breakfast of wheat, milk directly from the cow, boiled egg from the chicken, fresh fruit from her garden stand and her African tea with cream and honey from the beehive. I have been on track especially in taking the Malarone (Malaria Pills) daily; I also load up daily with insect repellant, sun block and a circular arm or foot insect repellant band and so far, so good – I don’t feel bit or bothered by insects – perhaps the farm visits tomorrow will tell a different story, however I plan to layer, and spray and protect to the best of my ability.
Our schedule has had to stay fluid with meetings with administrators/officials/politicians, so now we are meeting with the Minister of Gender per her availability this morning, seeing a couple of businesses in the afternoon and lunch at the Bourbon Café. Afterwards, we are meeting with the Ambassador at the U.S. Embassy, which included the director of U.S. Aid, Dennis Weller. We conclude the evening with dinner with students from last year at the Tennis Club, complements of Lillian and Joan.
Wednesday – May 6, 2009
Today dawned bright and early, and Bertha and I were up and out before the cock crowed (literally, as it crows daily). We met up with the others across the road from the Genocide Memorial and started our trek to Sarah’s Dairy Farm; it was an experience, as I had to desperately relieve myself. She took me down the hill to literally an outhouse with an uncovered hole (shades of Hyderabad, India from last year) and the deed was done. The chicken portion of the farm was massive – I cannot begin to think of the number outside in the yard and those in the chicken coop with the hatch/egg laying quarters. She showed us her egg control room, which she takes over 1,200 eggs to market everyday; I took a photo of the medicine cabinet that was refrigerated by generator, not electricity, in that same room. She had a large number of cows, and the area was reminiscent of ‘farm life’ for my family from the south in Alabama in the U.S..
We took a treacherous road to check out her banana plants area, as well as the water piping underground system that led directly to the farm; it was enlightening. We then took an equally treacherous road to see the elephant grass area and working women, one with a baby strapped to her, working the fields to take the greens to the farm directly for the cows. She stated that the women worked well and reliably, but that the men could not be counted on for such productivity in the village; the sad sideline is that the women turn their wages over to the men, fearing to be left for a younger woman, the same age as their own daughters. And some things are the same the world over………………
While traveling to the elephant grass and water reserve locations, one young village boy of about age 10 or 11, caught Darcie’s attention and heart. He was definitely a leader, quietly staying in the background to insure that the others were given bread that Darcie had the inspired idea to share; I think she took numerous photos of him (as well as the other children); his bright eyes and inquisitive smile foretells hopefully that he will someday be known for his strength and good will – at least he will be able to capture moments on camera, as Darcie also taught him how to photograph using her camera. It was touching.
Immy was very generous when she provided two drivers (and vehicles) to take us on the long trek to her coffee washing plantation, some two hours in the Eastern province of Rwanda. We stopped twice en route, first to use the facilities of a hotel and secondly to take a light meal about an hour from the operations….
Thursday - May , 2009
Day of departure – really the last day; I was picked up by the Ambassador and his driver at 6:00a.m. to play a round of nine holes. It was first and foremost, a true pleasure and humbling moment to be able to play on Rwandan soil. I was satisfied with my game and look forward to when the Ambassador and I can have a rematch; we had a bit more discussion surrounding issues for the application of IEEW in Rwanda, but there is a long road to travel still; he made a couple of suggestions and we journey on.
I got back, was exhorted by Bertha to move quickly to get ready for the Genocide Memorial visit and finish packing and etc. We got it done, took a small breakfast and moved on.
The Memorial was more than a notion – quite an unbelievable monument to the 100 days and previously…………I continue to be overwhelmed in quiet moments re: the whole aspect of the planned extermination, but then there was the Holocaust and the IRA protests in Ireland, and the caste system in India and it strikes you as all so unnecessary in the world of Humankind…………….
After such a sobering experience, we went to meet the Minister of Justice; he was a very accommodating man, given his role in exacting fairness across the board for
Genocide victims and their attackers (also known as Genociders); he explained his full implementation of Gacaca (pronounced Guh – cha – cha), with over 1.2 million people charged and investigated in the process. His visit was arranged by Mary through mutual friends in the U.S., Mary has turned out to be such an absolutely open book with her feelings and emotions; such a solid individual – it has been a joy getting to know her day by day. Lunch at the Bourbon Café was good and from there we met with the Minister of Commerce – she was very expressive, and her assistant was a sharp young woman who had spend a few years in the states. We were at the very least, able to simply exchange ideas and connect, which was sufficient…………a starting point……….
We left there and went to the Ambassador’s home with his wife, Susan Symington and the students. It was a bit of a sad farewell, but we left for the airport and all went without a hitch. What an incredible moment in time…………………
